How to Finish Silicone Joints: A Beginner’s Complete Guide

Last updated: 5/8/2026

If you’ve never sealed a bath, shower tray or kitchen sink before, applying and smoothing silicone sealant can feel intimidating. And yes, it can get messy fast, but you can actually get a clean, professional finish on silicone joints with no mess, you just need the right tools and a bit of prep.

Here’s how to finish silicone joints neatly first time, with a few tips for beginners and a look at the best silicone finishing tools for the job.

Start with Clean, Dry Surfaces

Before you do anything else, you should clean the area you’re sealing thoroughly of any old bathroom sealant, dirt, dust and grease. An alcohol-based cleaner or a silicone removing solvent like Multisolve can help get rid of any stubborn silicone residue. Make sure to clean and dry any solvents off before you apply new sealant though, as these chemicals can damage the new silicone joint. Silicone also won’t stick or seal properly to damp or dirty surfaces, so it’s important that you don’t rush this step.

Apply Masking Tape (Optional)

If you’re worried about getting straight lines on the silicone joint, a bit of masking tape can help. Just apply it to either side of the joint to create a neat channel for the sealant, and then peel it off once you’re finished tooling.

How to Apply Silicone Sealant

First, cut your sealant nozzle at about 45° angle. Apply steady pressure on the silicone gun and run a consistent bead along the tile joint – not too fast or the bead will break, and you’ll have to patch it up! If you are new to applying silicone sealant it can be a good idea to start by working in short sections so the silicone doesn’t start to set before you finish.

Now it’s time to smooth the joint.

Tooling Options: What Works Best For Finishing Silicone Joints?

1. Can I use my finger to smooth silicone sealant?

No. Just NO. Licking your finger and swiping it along the silicone joint may be the tried and trusted method from the past, but we really don’t recommend it. First of all, you’re guaranteed to transfer bacteria from your mouth straight into the fresh silicone. Your finger also leaves a curved surface in the sealant joint, which can trap water and more bacteria like a trough. Both of these mean the new silicone joint could be growing mould in no time! It’s also inconsistent and messy.

Pros:
✅ Doesn’t cost anything

Cons:
❌ Can lead to mouldy joints
❌ Leaves uneven finishes
❌ Not hygienic

2. Cramer Fugi Kit (or similar)

This is a popular silicone finishing tool set – and for a good reason. There are also plenty of off-brand versions with a similar idea. With multiple profiling edges for different joints, the Fugi kit gives professional results and plenty of options. As it has multiple parts, it’s a bit more kit to carry and clean, and will need a steady hand. But with a bit of practice, it will produce great results on lots of different silicone jobs.

Pros:
✅ Very versatile
✅ Quality results

Cons:
❌ Multiple pieces to manage
❌ Slight learning curve

3. Metex Silicone Block/ Silicone Block Pro

Made from durable silicone compound, this is a simple once-piece silicone finishing tool that’s reusable, easy to clean, and doesn’t need masking tape. Unlike a finger, it leaves a smooth, flat finish with no dents for water, mould or bacteria to collect – and won’t dip into grout joints. The Pro version in particular is also designed for easy 3-way corner joints.

Pros:
✅ Easy to use and ideal for beginners
✅ Works in tight spaces like behind taps
✅ No need for extra parts or masking tape

Cons:
❌ Fewer options for bead size than multi-part silicone tool kits

4. Piece of Wood or Plastic

Some use a bit of dowel or offcut plastic. And in the hands of a skilled professional, it can produce a great finish. It’s ultimately not made for the job though, and can drag the sealant.

Pros:
✅ Readily available and cheap

Cons:
❌ Hard to control
❌ Risk of gouging the sealant

Tips for a Flawless Finish

Lightly spraying your finishing tool with soapy water will help prevent sealant sticking to it. You don’t need to spray the joint though, and definitely don’t spray the surfaces before you apply silicone!

When you’re tooling, you’ll get the best results by pulling the tool in one smooth motion and cleaning it often as you go. Most silicone sealants will cure fully within 24 hours. If you used masking tape, remember to remove it straight after tooling.

What about those pesky internal corners?

Three-way internal silicone joint corners can be tricky, especially in showers and around baths. The key is to work in the right order and not overdo the amount of silicone. First apply and finish one silicone joint, tool it away from the corner, and let it skin over slightly. Next, apply the second joint and again make sure to tool it away from the corner, not into it. Finish the final vertical joint last, again pulling the tool away from the corner. If you’re unsure about this last step, you can always wait for the two horizontal joints to cure before applying the final joint.

A tool like the Metex Silicone Block Pro helps remove excess sealant from corners without damaging the finish. As long as you clean the tool often and re-spray with soapy water as needed, you can avoid build-up and keep the corner sharp and tidy.

Remember that less silicone is better in corners. You can always add a touch more if you need to, but excess is harder to control.

Oops – Made a Mess? Here’s How to Clean It Up

There’s no need to panic if you do end up smudging the silicone or applying too much. If the sealant is still wet, you can just wipe it away with a damp cloth or paper towel or use a plastic scraper or old credit card to lift the excess gently.

For dried silicone, you’ll need a sealant remover like Multisolve, or a scraper tool. Just apply the remover, let it sit as instructed, then peel or scrape away the sealant carefully. You should always clean the surface again before reapplying fresh silicone, though.

Sealant on Your Clothes?

Silicone sealant on clothes can be tricky, so it’s a good idea to wear old clothes when sealing, just in case. If you catch the silicone stain while it’s still wet, first scrape off what you can and then blot gently with a paper towel – Taskrabbit recommends blotting it out with white sprit.  You might be tempted to rub the stain immediately, but this will just cause the sealant to penetrate deeper into the fibers of the fabric, so you should avoid it at all costs! For dried silicone, you can gently peel or scrape it off, then apply a small amount of acetone (like nail polish remover) on the stain (just test on an inside seam first to avoid damage.) Freezing the silicone to solidify it can make scraping it off easier. And once the stain loosens, wash the garment separately.

Get the Perfect Finish, First Time

For a stress-free silicone sealant finish that looks like a pro did it, try the Metex Silicone Block – ideal for beginners and trusted by trades too. You can find it on Amazon or at your local DIY retailer.

Got questions or need advice on your silicone sealing job? We’re always happy to help, just get in touch and our friendly team will point you in the right direction.

Frequently Asked Questions